I arrived on Iraklia, an unspoiled island in the Cyclades, with little idea of what to expect. Most people have heard of its busier and more popular neighbours, Mykonos and Santorini. However, Iraklia is small—comprised of just a handful of tiny villages, a few cars, some family-run tavernas, and mostly empty beaches.
An Island that Time Forgot
My friend and I, both former teachers, wanted a peaceful and relaxing holiday, which is exactly what Iraklia promised to deliver. After a few intensely hot and sticky days in Athens, we boarded the ferry at Piraeus port, setting sail in search of paradise. We paused briefly to offload at Mykonos, where we watched the crowds disembark and join the throngs of people already on the island. For a moment, I wondered if we should have joined them on that famous island instead. However, by then, the ferry, having released most of its passengers, was already chugging out of the port. Just a few hours later, as we stood on a tiny jetty in the warmth of the late afternoon sun, watching the water churn from the departing ferry, we knew we had made the right decision.
Finding the Simple Life in Iraklia
As the small crowd from the ferry dissolved away, we waited for our ride to the guesthouse. The only taxi in Iraklia was busy so Yiannis, our guesthouse host, came to pick us up. Despite Iraklia’s small size, the terrain is steep, and you’ll find yourself climbing in almost every direction. During the drive, Yiannis pointed out two of his favourite restaurants. He joked that with so few restaurants, we would have the chance to visit all of them during our stay.
Iraklia isn’t a place you visit to check off famous sights or dance until dawn. It doesn’t need nightlife, fancy restaurants, or sprawling resorts to entertain its visitors. If you want to party, go somewhere else. This island is a reminder that life can be simpler and slower. Iraklia invites you to relax, breathe and connect to the moment.
Enjoying Island Life
If you’re used to busy tourist places like Santorini, then Iraklia will surprise you. Accommodations are modest; family-owned tavernas serve local fare without frills; and the island has a beautiful barren rawness. Yet, set amongst the dusty desert-like terrain you can still spot the iconic blue dome of the occasional church, and from the island’s highest spots you can take in a sweeping vista of the Aegean Sea.
In the evenings, the village lights cast a warm glow over the port where locals and travellers meet at a taverna for dinner with no rush to order and no pressure to leave—just hours of quiet conversation and laughter as the stars fill the night-time sky.
The Gift of Unhurried Days
We came to Iraklia looking for peace, and that is what we found. We read books on the soft, white sand beach and swam in glass-like water. With our daily lives back home being busy, we let the hours stretch out with nothing except the pleasure of simply being.
Our accomadation, Villa Zografos, was high atop a craggy hill. Each morning, we were treated to a spectacular view as we ate a delicious home-cooked pastry breakfast. Chatting to other travellers, we came to realise that Iraklia is a well-kept secret, a place to return to year-after-year-after-year, safe in the knowledge that nothing will have changed. Breakfast, beach and dinner. Rinse and repeat. Unless, you want to take a hike around the island, that is.
And then there are the cats! There are cats absolutely everywhere in Greece, which for a cat-lover like me is an absolute dream. However, you should think twice about feeding them if you don’t want cats fighting outside your apartment door all night! Lesson learned (but I’d do it again).
Leaving Iraklia
When it was time to go home, I felt a pang of sadness. Watching the island fade into the horizon, I dreaded the thought of returning to my job, which, at the time, was causing great stress. For a week, Iraklia had given me a quiet space to decompress and recharge. Something I’d needed far more than I realised. Little did I know, it would be the last time I felt the warmth of the sun for another seven months, thanks to the longest and coldest winter Sweden had seen in many years.
I rarely return to the same places, so I don’t know if I will return to Iraklia, but I have the beach as my screensaver. When my day is stressful, it’s good to remember a place of complete peace. If you are thinking of a Greek vacation next summer, maybe you can sail right past Mykonos and check out Iraklia instead. Trust me, you won’t regret it.
