We arrived in Ranthambhore after a bumpy 3-hour drive from Jaipur airport, 160km away. The sun had set long before our GPS directions led us into a desolate area of scrub wilderness – pitch black and vast – unhelpfully telling …

We arrived in Ranthambhore after a bumpy 3-hour drive from Jaipur airport, 160km away. The sun had set long before our GPS directions led us into a desolate area of scrub wilderness – pitch black and vast – unhelpfully telling …